Sailing off

WE ARE READY TO HAVE FUN AND DRINK COGNAC WHEN WE SAIL BEYOND INDONESIA MALAYSIA THAILAND ANDAMAN ISLANDS (India) TO THE PHILLIPINES



Wednesday, December 8, 2010

Maurole AND TRIBUTE TO IT'S PEOPLE


Maurole as we arrived. Last years umbrellas on the ground. All happy.







(delayed due to coverage)22nd to 27th August As Maurole 08 15 South and120 45 East Ende Regency was only a short distance away from Maumere and so scenic we decided to make our way there in one trip and have more time just to relax. And we missed it! Something to do with the wrong set of coordinates we have been given (like looking up the wrong place in street directory). Thankfully we met up with a couple who were lost too and had the right coordinates from some friends who travelled the route year before us. We have heard nothing of the place so really had no expectations or little expectations based on previous experiences. Well this was different? Maurole was like coming home to people who expect you and welcome you in a most relaxed way. Nothing was ready which was fine. The preparations were in full force for the gala dinner tent and landing “bridge”. This was a clean little town with a thousand of the happiest children. People actually worked here unlike other small towns. They grew crops of fine things like chocolate cashew nuts cotton like plant not to mention the rice. The first time we went for a walk on shore a wonderful young man/guide took us around and let us see what was pretty normal to him and totally new experience for us. We ate chocolate plant sweet and juicy really yum (wish they served it for gala dinner) and the cashews that grew in a most unusual way. A little nut attached to a pretty large fruit with the taste of tropics. We tasted as much as we could and fed the rest of the cashew fruit to goats (just with I had a camera) unforgettable. Imagine a goat backlit in afternoon sun eating hurrily a piece of very juicy fruit squishing the juice droplets everywhere.


We have seen and experienced a lot here…nice all nice. Man washing their horses on the beach in the evening. The evening fires like big bonfires. Kids playing ball with “the boys” and tired kids sleeping on cool graves it was hot HOOOOOOOOOTTTTTTTTTTT HHHHHHHHHHHHOOOOTTTTTTTT.We had dinners at restaurants which turned out to be private homes with a simple menu and they had a menu Nasi Goreng their national dish of fried rice. Had new neighbor a man on his boat that was just centimeters bigger than his body who come to Maurole for 3 weeks from their village far far away to fish. This man fished cooked slept and did all he had to to survive on his little boat. Robert wanted to give him frozen chicken for dinner one night. I stopped him thinking he did not eat it frozen chicken - wish I had not! I went on a photo trip to the village and played with kids who screamed to have their photo taken and delighted when I showed them their images. Than there was this graceful old lady. She was shy and agreed to have a photo taken when she saw the image she cried…my feeling were she cried for what she become from what she remembered herself to be…at the end we both cried. Life….simply perfect...and so fragile

Here we also went on the trip to Kelimutu Lakes.


The kids had fun at gala dinner - relaxed


At gala dinner with Burgen from the boat Blue and Friends from Apsara.
Oh everything but the last 3 steps of the “bridge” got ready on time for the gala dinner which was the best one so far. Thank you to all the wonderful people of Maurole for a wonderful experience!!!!!!!!!
Capitain's Note:  Nothing really




Always happy always having fun and calling mister mister...

It gets soooooooooooo hot so why not chose a nice cool place to rest.


Our neighbour who slept ate cooked fished while away on a fishing trip for 3 weeks.



Cashew nut with the soft fruit that tastes like tropics


Evening bonfires - magic moments

Cocoa fruit.When broken it has small seeds like luchee very sweet tasting.
Really nice.

Tears....

Robert singing along to "The world's most handsome man"
 with Robbie Williams while I and Robert's patient baked banana cakes.

Monday, December 6, 2010

On the way to Maurole

(Delayed due to coverage)

The "fluffy"
 mountains - they look so incredibly soft
On the way to Maurole 22nd August a brilliant day!!!!!!!!! Somewhere between 08 35 and 08 15 South and 122 11 to 120 45 East
Brilliant views of mountain formations that looked so special so velvety soft so amazing and went for kilometers.
Some looked like a long big lizard like animal.
Brilliant trip and a beginning of another experience. What sort of experience? Good bad unforgettable? That we never know...

Captain's Note: Taking the crew on a scenic tour of Indonesia HOT HOT deliriously HOT. Please note the cool breeze in my hair...LOL


Captain adjusting the sails to catch the very little wind...norm for sailing this areas.

The day would not be complete without at least a 1000 fishing boats buoys and nets

Ok look to the left and you will see a head than follow on and you will see the body.
There was a whole body to the tail just like a giant Komodo Lizard.




Saturday, December 4, 2010

Maumere - delayed


Fishing village at low tide...these houses go fo miles
 19th- 22nd August – delayed due to network coverage Maumere anchorage 08 35South 122 11 East East Nusa Tengara Sikka Regency (here comes the part of too many names)

This was not an easy place to anchor with the promised capacity for 100 yachts we were the 20th yacht to arrive and there was no room. Most yachts have let out a lot of anchor chain like 80-90 m so needless to say anchoring was like knitting a very fine lace. Thanks to our wonderful captain skills who performed a very delicate maneuvering action ( like getting into a tightest of tight parking spots where the other cars were secured on strings and moving with a strong wind ) and after closing my eyes for a while ( you know “what you can’t see won’t hurt you” ) we anchored leaving the closest reef about 1 1/2m behind us. The water was beautiful and clear and no rubbish. I guess we have seen enough rubbish on our way here. Loooottttttssssssssss of different things…plastic bags would have to take first place only after plastic bottles large logs (3-6m ) palm trees rats goats without feet decomposing of course dead fish…add what you want to the list.

This is a lovely clean house with 2 graves right in the front door a clean baby
and a dog.
The graves are a very important part of life
where people sleep on them eat have meetings play games ...really all sort of things

Happy happy kids playing with their home made trucks.
Always so great to see. We call them the
"Red truck brigades"in the nices way

Our bemo stop and waiting area right outside the resort...hmmm
 Maumere anchorage was different as it was a part of Wailiti resort. We have not seen a resort in Indonesia. What we have seen so far were rather remote areas or like” Kupang the New York of Indonesia”. As we got of the boat and up on one of those newly built platforms (nails not all in place) and proceeded to the main street trough what seemed like a pig breeding place right opposite some fields where a lot of really happy kids were playing with little red trucks they have made out of car oil containers. Some had wheels others still waiting for parts to make wheels.

This walking "bridge" was so new that some nails were not quite all the way in...

The Royal Family at the gala dinner. This one was different.
The entertainment started with a self
starter and first timer
 who could not sing or dance even the princess smiled.The food ran out
 so back to dried fish and rice and something.
We never worked out what the something was...

Maumere from the sea...
 This road took us to a very clean corner house where the ancestors graves were placed straight in the front door. Must say that this was the first clean house we have seen. There was even a clean dog without too much damage to his body. The main street was occupied by goats marking the bemo stop. Once on a music blaring bemo with all windows closed and the heat reaching 45 our hearts almost stopped few times as the bemo driver was new and came close to THE EDGE with a huge fall a few times off to the market ( pasar ) we went. The heat is getting unbearable for all of us. Just be able to go out we drink gastrolite to replace all the fluids and eat bananas to keep the sugar up and than follow up with beer and coca cola which works. We can’t drink water anymore it only makes us swell. Hey things we do to get a few “fresh veggies” and the little fruit that is for sale. We wanted to get some onion just to find out that it was $7 (49 000) per kilo in a country that everything is about the 1000 (7000 = $1-) we opted for local onion that is the size of our garlic and spent hours peeling. Many other things were for sale here including dogs which were tied up in shocking ways. This upset couple of our party( I was lucky not to have seen it ) so we left as fast as we could and minding the steps always. We have to watch every step we take and watch out for others as the roads have holes big enough for a human to fit in…we need all those legs and arm on board. Another fishing village lovely to look at from the water and not so on land. Another gala night…yes dried fish and rice and some other food not sure what. We snorkled in the fabulous reef behind the boat with lots of sea lice to bite still a great sight and a totally different world to the one above peaceful clean quite and ANOTHER FABULOUS EXPERIENCE!!!!!!!!!!

Refulling in a breeze is never a breeze....

CAPITANS NOTE A brand new way in refueling. Hire a tip truck with seven guys seventy jerry cans than explain to the truck driver where to go for fuel go to the local fuel station and just DO IT!!!!!!!!! Than of course take it back to the boats.


Friday, December 3, 2010

Between Lembata and Maumere

One of our visiting fisherman comes for a peek...
this one had nothing to trade nor was he game to say anything.



Our 2nd anchorage where "THE BOYS" fixed the small engine problem.
Just a loose hose.Look closely at the edge of the water and you will see
palm stumpscreated during
 one of the natural disasters here.

SOOOOOOOOOOOOO relaxing the wind the water and....

August 14th - 19th delayed due to coverage We had 6 days to make our way from Lembata to Maumere and decided to take it slow and easy with shorter sailing days and stays overnight wherever we liked with no time limits. It was time for some r&r. The first anchorage was a short distance from Lembata. It was a beautiful day and an absolutely amazing spot with water so clear and in so many different hues of blue and blue green with a tiny island and a colony of birds STUNNING!!!! We loved everything about it except it was very uncomfortable at night so we did not and could not get much sleep at all. The morning was just perfect with little fisherman coming for a look in their little boats.Others picking sea urchins washed away on shore at the “tiny” island.We had to move and had some nice wind on the way so even the MPS sail got some use. Had a little problem with an overheated motor nothing serious could have been fixed in 5 minutes if one was small enough and took the whole really hot day with ALL the credit to Woofer Robert and Barry from Apsara.


Sunsets...well you see for yourself.

Tinker playing NIGELA and making her proud with snake bean creation a'la Indian
These few days were relaxing and playful as the picture story tells.Enjoy…

Also 2nd anchorage at night a beautiful sight with
smoke and fires which we thought were lava spots...could have been.

The "BOYS" happy again after having fixed our technical problem
 in the scorching heat for hours. Each had a scrub with dishwashing liquid
(the only thing that removes grease).They scrubbed up OK.

And the beautiful glistering lazy soft excuses for waves.

Tinker's creativity unvailing...ha ha

This was another fabulous spot with water so clear and a heart beach...most stone
 formations were in a shape of a heart. I wish I have taken lots and lots...
never seen them again. When there is an opportunity-take it!!!!
We called this spot Stairway to heaven.




And the heart beach....

Tinker still playing with camere and self portrait.

Helping the local fisherman with hooks...no trade just freebies.
Most of the boats that approach us are looking for free anyting some
 even demand it.





Lembata - delayed due to network coverage

The beautiful and active Ile Ape volcano
Delayed due to network coverage 10-13 August Lembata 08 21 South and 123 24 East part of the East Nusa Tenggara province. An interesting and very picturesque island from the boat…It has active volcanoes both on land and at sea and is placed on the path where Earth plates constantly move. A somewhat dangerous spot where the locals still honor the traditional spirits to protect them – very wise. We were anchored near Lowoleba which is the capital of this Island with a fantastic view of the beautiful and imposing as well as active Ile Ape volcano. We spent a few days here.
Definetly active...
 I guess this might be an opportune moment to tell you a little about the Sail Indonesia Rally and how it all works. It is a very important project for the Indonesian government and the provinces so in each place there is a lot of preparation before we are due to arrive sometimes those preparations stretched a little so at times we found ourselves walking up stairs which were being still hurrily constructed while we were walking up them. Quite funny sometimes concerning matter and that is Indonesia. So after finding our way to the destination which at times was more than challenging because we were given the wrong information or read it in the wrong book or the information in the book was just plainly wrong. Yes …understand this is confusing…YES…we got 3 guide books on arrival in Indo and than we were asked to throw away 2 and which 2 was not clear so we threw out 1.Well each boat threw out a different one so we all had different combinations of books and it didn’t matter really as most of the information in those books was lets say not quite right. To add to the problem there is the challenge of several different names for the same place. This is not easy to find a place! Anyway back to our Sail Indonesia Rally. All places we visited were always decorated with large flags which was great because it was sometimes the only way to find the place. Than there is the welcome ceremony side tours and the gala dinner. So far these have been very different in each place.
That is the "Pasar" the market obviously not built for guests like us.
Coming back to our Lembata-Lowoleba experience we laughed marveled we were disgusted saddened sorry and I had a personal challenge. The two very consistent things still present – the friendly Indonesian people and the rubbish. As we arrived rather late by design just in time for the welcome ceremony which was lovely and than proceeded to the gala dinner celebration which was a short walk away accompanied by all people and children and bikes from Lowoleba and surrounding areas. We were each presented with a little box with rice water and a roll and had the pleasure to listen to ALL children from ALL schools in the area sing and dance which lasted well over 3 hours followed by long speeches most in Indonesian – oh well. The kids were delightful. And then another gala dinner of what we thought a surprise of beef and rice unfortunately the beef was char grilled and had large bones so we all concluded that it must have been fish indeed.Most food has been like this so far. We had many experiences in this town we laughed at the gala dinner and when we went to the local produce market which was so hot and was built so low that our heads were sticking way above the roof lines and we laughed when the local paper was being read on loud speakers and no one could hear anything at the market and than when we took the wrong bus to go back and ended up on the local bus
The bus experience going to somwhere...

Well we clearily could not fit this pig inside...than I guess if we really tried....
 going somewhere with people kids ducks geese eggs huge loud speakers and than THE PIG yes a live one tied to a stick. Well there was no room for her inside so on the roof she went LOL because the roof was hot enough to roast her decision was made to place her on fresh leaves and cover her with them too. We also laughed when 6 of us went to the local restaurant decorated with ornate tablecloth and toilet paper for serviettes for dinner and ordered food. All but Robert finished eating. We wondered what happened to his meal. Well someone ordered it with their cousin in town because they did not have it at the restaurant and than they forgot to ask their friend to get on the bike to pick it up because they were on the phone talking. That by the way is quite normal here. Oh he did eat late that night. The sad things well they need to be mentioned the market and some other areas like the fishing village where lots of people live had the smell of death mixed with rot dried fish and sweat with rotting rubbish everywhere How people live and I am not sure that it is a choice for them was so so sad.
This looks lovely and believe me this was not a pretty sight.

What a beautiful spot and boats...one could say a perfect spot on a perfect day.

This is the other part of this story. The picture was taken from here at the restaurant
with rubbish and...everywhere. Every picture tells a thousand stories....
 I have seen many such places in the world and this one actually had an incredible impact so much so that I could not eat an ice-cream on the street as I felt the dirt and despair was going to stick to me. I remember coming back to boat and washing the few veggies in water with disinfectant…hmmm
The rush hour in the bay.The whole of Lembata goes fishing in the morning.

The fish is so small and the spirit that drives these people...GREAT
Beautiful moments – the whole city going fishing in their boats early in the morning. Such a spirit between them. Priceless Overall experience good or bad? A great one!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Wednesday, December 1, 2010

Finally ARRIVED Langkawi our final destination 2011

The morning after the last race - it was time to remove the boat number
 and have a look around Langkawi.

The stunning view from Langkawi.

White sand beach at the Four Seasons Hotel
which is the newest addition to the island
 and absolutely amazing - not to be missed if you are visiting.

Fun and exciting to see road signs like this. So tropical!!!
Oh and there are monkeys.

This is the time to fold up and store sails (not a small task).
 Robert and Barrie  - many hands make light work.

This was so funny.Some guy talked Robert into holding a snake.
Only the snake had his own ideas of sliding into Robert's shorts at the back.
Should I mention here that Robert is let's say rather scared of snakes.The look
priceless....

The blog author working hard to bring you
 the stories and news and take you with us on our journey.
The heat on the boat has always been rather intense
so a small fan and a drink were a great help.
ARRIVAL WAS NOT EASY! Last of the 3 races. This race we decided not to use the engine at all as a matter of principle.
Ariived in Lankawi 1am peach black ...storm..we could not even see the finish line due to weather and I made a boo -boo with sailing to the wind to fold the main sail.Happens to the best of us under preassure and preassure there was.
Entered into marina after 1am - not the perfect plan when you don't know the plan and there is always a price one pays for principles.
All ended well.Very well actually with a party.Many of the crew members waited for us to arrive which was great.Thank you!!! It is so nice to be welcomed. We were the only 2 person crew and on a cruising yacht too.It was a fantastic experience and an event really well organised.Would do it all over again.Even Port klang as it was a part of the whole experience.

Romantic beaches.