Andaman Islands - The plan

Taken this morning "The Girl" ready for the journey with some traditional
Thai flowers for luck and good time

We are finally ready after our extensive preparations shopping checking out of Thailand preparing for formalities of checking into Andamans and more shopping. Our planned journey to Andaman Islands is. Leave Phuket Marina Thailand(in company of Apsara)tomorrow on Sunday 29th and make our way to Similan Islands Thailand which should take us about 5-6-7 days (sailing days) taking it totally easy than we will have to calculate our 3 day cross over to Port Blair Andamans carefully in terms of hours travelled to arrive there in daylight as well as in terms of days of the week. We need to arrive during week day which may speed up our checking in. Once we get to Port Blair and get trough the check in proces which can be 2 days long we than have to present our plan of stay and visits which will either be approved or changed we than have to report each morning and evening with our position as well as check the local weather as this is temperamental. Now Andaman Islands and what we know so far. They are a World Heritage site in Bay of Benga with somel 330 Islands with highest peaks of submerged mountain range that stretches from Sumatra Island. Ranked alongside Zanzibar Pago Pago and Timbuktu as the ultimate in tropical mystery. They still have stone age inhabitants related to African Pygmies in 4 tribal groups - Great Andanamese had already been pushed to the edge of extinction - Onge on Little Andaman around 100 left today - Jarawa most isolated tribe on the planet today. Only 100 or so hunter gatherers are left today They have no contact with other humans as they always violently reject any contact from the outside world and are violent if approached and nobody understands their language. Sailors of the past told fantastical tales long time ago about the islands tiny black skinned " cannibals" who would butcher shipwrecked crews. Marco Polo described them as having" heads like dogs and teeth and eyes likewise" 84% protected as National Park or tribal reserves for the native inhabitants. Centuries of isolation of Andamans present visitors with a rare time capsule here. There are pristine beaches and spectacular diving with untouched ecosystem even a live volcano on Barren Islandwhere we want to visit Untouched jungle including Andanamese cobras twenty feet long (apparently they eat other snakes like several feet long water krait snakes) saltwater crocodiles and oddities like emerald geckos as well as the world largest crab the Robber Crab which can climb trees and knock down coconuts which they than crack for coconut milk Exotic wildlife fishing amongs the best in the world and we definetly intend to fish!!!! Apparently there is more crayfish that one could eat. Hmm will let you know about this one.Surfing is amazing and Andamans are home to swimming elephants on Havelock Island. The land is a strategically sensitive frontier.Foreigners are allowed to visit only 38 islands with permission which is granted on entry and not automatically for a maximum stay of 30 days with visa. Andamans were hard hit 2004 by earthquake and Tsunami South and middle Islands are 2 meters lower.We have to be very careful using our GPS as datum is out nearly 1/2 mile. We will need to apply corrections of 0.092'S and 0.106'E to make it all line up - try doing that! Apparently the existing charts are dating back to somewhere in rather early 1900 and are not really correct so extreme care is required. There are surprise coral reefs and an Invisable Reef. No closing eyes on this trip! Andamans were a British colony in the past." in the early 1900 s those who chose to resist the British with violence in India were either sentenced to death by hanging or deported to Port Blair (our first call in Andamans and the capital city) for life imprisonment " in The Cellular Jail which we plan to visit. Apparently it is absolutely unique. The whole of Andamans sound rather unique and an experience we are looking forward to. Hoping for great winds safe passage both ways and an unforgettable time for all the good reasons.

50 Hours Run on the run - day 1 Phang Na Bay



Phang Na Bay



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Cu Chi Tunnels - near Ho Chi Mingh City

Cu Chi Tunnels 5^th August 2011

The whole Cu Chi experience started with the not so wise choice of a driver who was keen and pleasant and as we found later on could not speak a word of English. We assumed that he knew his way to Cu Chi Tunnels as they are located just over an hours drive from Ho Chi Mingh.. Asumption on our part was totally wrong!

 Ha… Ha… yes we got lost. Not once but several times. On the way there and on the way back and the whole “lost” experience was worth the trip and the extra time it took. Of course we had lots of detours in and within small and very small villages with most interesting sights. We went trough ditches rice fields saw absolutely splendid water buffalos just relaxing in the cool waters in the scorching heat of the day. Our “wonder driver” had to stop and ask for directions in many strange places. We even stopped at a coffin sellers or makers place and were astounded by the size of Vietnamese coffins and the symbology on the coffins. . Try Swastika for major decoration theme for the coffin? One coffin could probably fit easily 3 bodies.

Even after our final arrival and collection 5 entry coupons each (something different we thought we would only need one) we were still taken to the wrong place – non other than the family park so no wonder that we walked and walked and could not find the tunnels.

Finally the experience of going trough tunnels was great. They were built in 3 levels the first being 3 meters and third level 10 meters under ground. We were only allowed to the first level tunnels and few meters at the time

They started to be built in 1948 a to assist the VIET Minh in their fight against the French and formed whole underground cities and homes to over 10 000 people who lived in the tunnels for years

Entering the first tunnel was a little like”oh do we really want to do this?” The tunnel looked small really small dark and it was mainly our curiosity and the people behind us that got us going.

We were in a small group of people and had to move in unison as the tunnels were quite small .No sudden stops slowing down or any unexpected behavior like “stage fright”. We could only move hunched down and even then we were touching the walls with our backs as well as sides. It was completely dark a bit damp and still humid .There was a feeling of being vulnerable. This would not have been a comfortable place with bombs exploding above ground etc. Going trough the tunnels we both asked ourselves questions like – Would we have done this if we had to save our life? Absolutely we would! We both agreed on that.

It is amazing what conditions humans overcome to survive. Courage and will to survive win in so many situations.

We have seen the main sections of tunnels like the living areas command center meeting areas kitchens and field hospitals – these were all comparable size rooms.

One really interesting experience indeed and another great day in Vietnam.

Thailand - Phuket

Tesagan Gin Je or the Vegetarian festival NOTE SOME DISTRESSING PHOTOGRAPHS



The festivities in Phuket include procession of MAH SONG
wearing elaborate costumes  
This is all very carnival like atmosphere with crackers noise
 and lots of people



Mah Song are the people that

 invite the spirits of gods to posses their bodies.

Mah means horse and
refers to how the gods will use their bodies-as a vehicle
It is believed that while one is possessed -  the Mah song
 will not feel the pain. They appear to be in deep trans.
Continous cuts are being made as Mah Song move their heads
 from side to side continously.

The belief is that partaking in this Tao ceremony
prolongs one’s life absolves sins and past debts
and eliminates bad luck of oneself and his family

Only pure unmarried people can be Mah song.

Women can also be Mah Song

MAH SONG wear
elaborate costumes
 and pierce
 their cheeks
 and tongues



People accompany
mah songto keep
 their wounds clean
and help
 support the heavier
 piercing
One happy
 havy sward handler



The entranced distribute blessed candy and pieces of orange cloth
engraved with words for good luck



The entranced



And more blessings.
Mah Song seem to receive some gifts and it all happened quickly
 so I didn't manage to see what it was



Grateful woman holding on to  her families orange cloth engraved with words for good luck.
The kids are holding on to their blessed candy.

Sunday 18^th September 2011

Driving along Phukets streets on a sunny Sunday afternoon we noticed this commotion on the side of the road with crackers and lots of people. Sometime when in a foreign country those times take one by surprise and this on did ! We soon realized that what we were witnessing was the Vegetarian Festival that has 2 other names. Something we have read about and I in particular have always wanted to see it. We expected it to take place later on in the month and we knew that this year we were going to miss it – unfortunately.

If you thinking of vegetarian festival as eating a lot of vegetables you are in for a huge surprise. It is also known as Nine Emperor Gods Festival and it lasts nine days starting on the eve of the ninth lunar month. It is one of the most unusual and bizarre festivals in Thailand it is called Tesagan Gin Je or Vegetarian festival.

The story is that Nine Emperor Gods are the nine sons of Emperor Zhou and Mother of the Big Dipper. Tao believe that honoring the North Dipper Stars prolongs one’s life absolves sins and past debts and eliminates bad luck of oneself and his family.

According to folk stories that the 9 sons were actually sea pirates.

According to Tao Nine Emperor Gods are high ranking Star Lords presiding over the movement of planets and coordinating mortal life and death issues. Serious “stuff”

So on the eve of the ninth moon the temples of the deities hold a ceremony to invoke and welcome the 9 emperors. A carnival like atmosphere pervades the temples with

most devotees staying at the temple and eating vegetarian meals as well as reciting continuous chanting and prayer. Mah Song are the people that invite the spirits of gods to posses their bodies. Mah means –horse and refers to how the gods will use their bodies-as a vehicle and can be seen shaking their heads back and forth continually. Only pure unmarried people can be Mah song . They wear elaborate costumes and pierce their cheeks and tongues with all sort of sharp objects : swards banners knifes etc. Some pierce their arms with pins or fishhooks as well.

Teams of people accompany Mah Song to keep their wounds clean and help support the heavier piercing. It is believed that while one is possessed the Mah song will not feel the pain.The entranced distribute blessed candy and pieces of orange cloth engraved with words for good luck and maybe get some gifts.

In Phuket participating parties wear white which is translated to abstinence of meat seafood and diary products and this is called JE food. Yellow flags are hang out in places that sell JE food. The streets are full of yellow flags now wherever we drive.

There is a belief that there will be rain during all the nine days since the arrival of gods is believed to be trough water. Laugh if you want and we had rain for the past 2 days with winds that took my washing away…

On the ninth day there will be a great procession held to send the deities home.

Oh by the way apparently there are no scars left. I also heard that there was no blood well that as you could see is not quite so.



Khao lak

Khao lak is a seaside place that sits on a long stretch of coastline with attractive beaches. The big draw in the season  are the live abroad diving trips which explore the stunning Similan ( meaning 9 as there are 9 islands ) and Surin Archipelago.


The power of nature is very evident here...



We stayed in a rather attractive resort for couple of days and explored the small town as well as the empty destroyed by tsunami hotels – quite ghostly.




What used to be...3 large resorts
Totally destroyed by tsunami
They will never
be rebuilt.
Sad feelings around here
 with dead stillness
and the nature taking over
what used to be...

 

A tribute to an european family
 with their picture
 held to a coconut tree
 and protected.
 Marked  with a small coral rock...
 still after so many years




A small house
 that is built outside of the shade
 of the large house
 for protection
 from bad spirits
 giving them somwhere
to live.
 Each house in Thailand
has at least one
small house like this.
Offerings are placed daily.



This town was hit really hard by the tsunami some say that it was hit the most. A police boat was brought by the tide where it currently stands 2km inland when the giant wave hit. The boat remains on the hill as a monument to those lost and a reminder of natures raw power.

We went trough the small villages on the coast and wondered how anyone would possibly make it to safety if another tsunami hit. The villages are right on the beach and the closest high ground is kilometers away. We followed a trail of the tsunami safety signs and the signs led to a mosque on the main drive trough road 5 km away. We feel that it might be a rather long run for safety. We have seen couple of tsunami towers and we are not sure how they are supposed to work. It might be look and see arrangement.. There are so many areas in Thailand that were hit so much harder than Phuket and had higher loss of life than Phuket yet they are not mentioned.

This is the only tiger we found on this trip...



A quick stop at a  typical Thai fruit store
with stink beans on the way home/boat.
So traditional in the south

Ratchaprapha and Chiaw Lan Lake

Jul 2011


Some of the long boats waiting for tourists.
In season this place would be absolutely buzzing and out of season it is
a rather lazy and restful time for all.

The rain stopped for maybe 2-3 hours in 3 days and we took this time to drive to stunning Chiaw Lan Lake that was created by an enormous shale clay dam called Ratchaprapha with lime outcrops protruding from the lake to 960m.We had to employ the services of a long boat and a driver to go trough the lake.” Bobby” found an original one indeed! He looked like an interesting character and his boat (or his friends boat sometimes it is hard to follow) looked just as original as he did. He needed some money up front to buy fuel first. He had coupe of car seats in his friends boat an absolute classic.

The lake with it’s outcrops was breathtaking impressive and magnificent. There were also some caves but because of weather we could not walk trough them. I was happy about that! Who wants to walk in cold water on a cold day – a rarity in Thailand. The caves are normally partly submerged.

We also visited a small tourist village in a wonderful setting. Fed some beautiful pink fish and met the locals that were looking after the place We utilized our rain free period to the max. it started raining again just as soon as we got of the boat. We could clearly see the rain following us and were all giving our driver all the encouragement to go faster laughing and screaming….

Next day we decided to move on to Khao lak